Drying and Sanding Paste Filler

The speed at which paste filler dries when you apply it to wood depends on several things. These are the condition of the atmosphere in the area where you are doing the work. The filler will dry a lot faster in a warm and dry area. Other conditions include the amount and the kind of oil that you use, the quality of the paste filler and the volatility of the solvents. Using raw linseed oil in the mixture and damp cool air check or slow up the drying of filler in wood for wood frames, wood corner blocks, and plinth blocks.

Under ordinary shop conditions most of the standard paste fillers sold on the market should have at least 48 hours to dry before shellac or any other finish is applied over them. Sanding can generally be done after 24 hours. Oxidation of linseed oil, especially raw oil, is a slow process; and, since there is linseed oil in paste fillers, you must allow plenty of time for the drying process of the filler. If you do not allow for this time, you will experience various finishing troubles later on after the article is varnished and you will not be able to correct the problems.

When sandpapering a filled surface, you should be aware that filling always leaves a slightly rough surface. This means you should sand the surface very lightly with No. 00 or No. 000 sandpaper. Small fragments of filler may be left on the surface after rubbing or the filled surfaces in the cell cavities may be slightly rough or not quite level. By using a magnifier, you will easily be able to see if any of these conditions exist on your ornamental pediment, fireplace accessories, or designer window toppers.

In addition, the fuzz on the surface of the wood may have been very slightly raised by the oil in the filler or the solvents that were used to make it spread to better advantage. Fine sandpaper should be used and it should be handled with great care to prevent cutting through at corners and other exposed places. If you have little or no experience in wood finishing, you need to make sure that you sand lengthwise of the grain with light strokes or the work may be damaged.

You should not place the sandpaper over a hard block and used in that manner because streaks and spots may be cut through the filler and perhaps a stain coat that was applied previously. You should always use soft felt blocks or you can make sure that you hold the paper over your hand for most of the sanding process. Double-coated split sandpaper is thin and flexible, and convenient for some kinds of sanding on wood for bar rail moulding, frieze boards, and wood frames.

Fine "Wetordry" waterproof garnet finishing-paper, over a "Wetordry" felt pad well moistened with water, can also be used to advantage over filled surfaces. The appearance is often improved by wiping a filled surface with a cloth moistened with benzine as a final operation after the sanding has been completed. Small particles of sand and fragments of wood together with any muddiness from excess portions of filler are removed leaving an effect of greater transparency as a result of the wiping operation.

Allison Ryan is a freelance writer from San Diego, CA. She specializes in wood working; from frieze boards and fireplace accessories to wood corner blocks and wood frames. For the best in hardwood moulding, Allison recommends stopping by http://www.ferche.com/.

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